Acid ,Capric(Decanoic acid):Found in goat fat
Acid, Caprylic(Octanoic acid): From Saw Palmetto (Seronoa Repens), used for centuries for the ability to keep mucous clear
Acid, Citric (2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid):Found in lemons, orange and peach - alpha hydroxy acid - natural clarifying, hydration and exfoliation effect on skin
Acid, Ellagic: Highest source in Pomegranate, grapes, nuts, strawberries, anti mutagenic effect on cells, natural source of 3 estrogens, testosterone, betasitosterol,
Acid, Malic:Found in peach, plum, chery and apple - alpha hydroxy acid natural clarifying, hydration and exfoliation effect on skin
Acid, Oxalic( Ehanedioic acid): Inorganic acid form insoluble salt with calcium, found in rhubarb and spinach, cleans rust stains from fabric and porcelain
Acid, Palmitic(Hexadecanoic acid):Palm oil
Acid, Quinic (Shikimic acid): Found in plums and carrot leaves - key for biosynthesis of aromatic compounds, used as a starting point for pharmaceuticals
Acid, Stearic (Octadecanoic acid):Found in tallow and beef fat
Acid,Lactic(2-hydroxypropanoic acid): Natural alpha hydroxy acid stimulates collagen production and increases growth of basal cells, natural clarifying, hydration and exfoliation effect on skin
Acid,Tartaric:Found in grapes, raisins, high in linoleic an doleic fatty acids - aids in healing chapped skin, has a natural lifting effect
Aloe Vera(Aloe Barbadensis): Healing, humectant
Alpha Hydroxytetronic Acid: Excellent natural bleaching agent
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate(ALS): Can be retained in fat cells for years, known toxic agent - dermatitis,mutagenic
Apricot Kernel oil(Prunus Armenica): Rich in Vit C, antioxidants, promotes healthy, supple skin
Avocado oil (Persea Gratissima): Omega 3 fatty acid, healer and hydrator
Behentrimonium Methylsulfate: Natural emulsifier from canola and rapeseed oils. Also has a preservative effect - used in baby products for mildness
Behyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohol, thickens, is a solvent and emollient
Benzaldehyde: Toxic compound. Often in synthetic Bitter almond oil
Benzene:Often used as a solvent, known to be toxic to bone marrow and mutagenic (changes cell structure)
Benzoyl-hydrogen urea:Organic peptides of urea
Biosaccaride Gum:Moisturizer, bacteria and pathogens have a hard time attaching to sugars, hydrates longer than hyaluronic acid
Bisobolol:From chamomile - has a healing, soothing cell strenthening effect
Cajaput oil(Cajaputi Melaleuca Lencodendron):Used in Ayrevedic medicine for it's natural analgesic and healing effects,especially on joints and muscles
Capric/triglycerides: Emollient, skin conditioner and protectant
Carbomer: Known as a rheology modifier ( suspension agent or building agent) - non-comedogenic
Carbopol: Known as a rheology modifier ( suspension agent or building agent) formed by a polymerization of benzene - non-comedogenic
Cetearyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohol (non-drying), emollient, thickens and moisturizes, from palm oil
Cetyl Alcohol: Non drying alcohol, is an emollient and stabilizer - plant source
Cetyl Myristoleate: From fish oil
Chlorella Vulgaris: Heavy Metal Chelator
Cocoamide DEA: Form of SLS
CoQ10 (Ubiquinone):Not really a vitamin, required for every cell in the body, known oxygenator, antioxidant
Corn oil (Zea Mays): Called a botannical placenta - rich penetrating hydrator
Dandelion(Taraxacum Officinalis):Astringent
Decyloleate: Synthetic clogging oil - it's cousins are: isopropylpalmitate, isotherma, putty stearate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, laureth-4, isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso-cetyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant
De-esterification:Removal of the methyl ester groups from the galacturonic acid building blocks of pectin molecules
Dimethiconol: Antifoam agent, emollient
Echinacea(Echinacea Purpura):Stimulates immunity and has an antiinflammatory effect
Elder flowers (Sambucus Canadensis): Antiinflammatant, clarification, healing
Emulsion:Dispersal of one liquid into another in which it is usually not immiscible (oil and water)
Essential oils:Highly concentrated amounts of active alkaloids in plants,% of the phytoactive ingredients are standardized.
Ester: Composite of an organic acid (-COOH) and an alcohol (-OH)
Ester C:Neutralized (buffered) source of Vitamin C, increases skin absorption
Ethanol: Drying alcohol
Ethylene glycol: type of anti-freeze, severe irritant and reproductive hazard - in cosmetic products
Evening Primrose oil (Oenothera Biennis): Vit F, Rich in Gamma Linoleic Acid (GLA) , omega~6 essential fatty acids, aids in immune function,
retexturizes skin and reduces inflammation,restores vibrancy, enables skin cell receptor sites to receive moisture
Fatty acids: Contain glycosides - natural glycolic acids -
FD&C colors: 1906 Congress passed FDA act. All colors in the US in food, cosmetics, or drugs, must be certified. Only FD&C colors are certified. If you want color, you have no choice.
Flavones: Phenolic compound related to flavonoids - where the flavone has a hydrogen atom the flavonoids have some hydroxyl, methyl or sugar groups substituted
Flavonoids: Phenolic compounds, water soluble ,related to flavones- subgroups:anthocyanins(120),anthoxanthins(120),phenolicsor tannins(20),leukoanthocyanins(20,)
Geranium(Geranium Robertianum):Balances sebum, humectant
Ginkgo Biloba: Herbal adaptogen known for it's abitlity to oxygenate and energize
Glyceryl Cocoate: Derived from coconut oil, Water soluble oil, ester of glycerine and fatty acids - glycerol derived
Glyceryl Stearate: Emulsifier, plant source, (can be synthetic)
Glycol Stearate: Emulsifying plant wax from natural source, (can be synethetic)
Grain alcohol: Natural preservative, produced by the fermentation of carbohydrates, acts as a nat'l emulsifier, transports nutrients to cells, aids in moisture retention
Grapefruit Seed(Citrus Grandis): Rich in Vit C, Quercetin and Rutin, protects cell, a natural preservative
Grapeseed (Vitis Binitera): Powerful antioxidant capable of protecting in both water and lipid parts of the cell, increases cell elasticity and aids in healing,lubicant for sensitive skin
Green Tea(Carnelia Oleifera):Rich in antiobxidants, polyphenols, cell protection from chemical assaults, antiinflammatant, soothes skin
Horsetail (Equiseteum Arvense):Rich in Silica (necessary for calcium absorption),aids in collagen synthesis, effects elasticity and tone of skin, aids in external barrier, heals blemishes
Humectant:A substance that pulls moisture to the cell and retains it
Hydrocotyl extract (Gotu Kola):Calms and acts as an antiinflammatant
Hydrolyze: Break chemical linkages by adding water to yield a smaller molecule
Hydrolyzed Soy (Glycine Soja):Called a botannical placenta - rich penetrating hydrator, same organoleptic chain as placental extract, skin restorer
Hydroxy Methyl Glycinate: Plant derived preservative
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbomate:Preservative, plant source
Iso-cetyl Stearate: Synthetic clogging oil - it's cousins are: isopropyl palmitate, isotherma, putty stearate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, laureth-4, decyloleate, isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant
Isotherma: Synthetic clogging oil - it's cousins are: isopropyl palmitate, putty stearate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, laureth-4, decyloleate, isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso-cetyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant
Isomerization: Molecue change resulting n a molecule containing the same elements in the same proportions but slightly different structure - have different properties
Isopropyl Myristate: Synthetic clogging oil - it's cousins are: isopropyl palmitate, isotherma, putty stearate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, laureth-4,decyloleate, isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso-cetyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant
Isopropyl Palmitate: Synthetic clogging oil - it's cousins are: isotherma, putty stearate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, laureth-4, decyloleate, isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso-cetyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant
Isotearyl Neopentonate: Synthetic clogging oil - it's cousins are: isopropyl palmitate, isotherma, putty stearate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, laureth-4, decyloleate, octyl stearate, iso cetyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant
Jojoba(Simmondsia Chinensis): known for a healing, soothing, clarifying effect on the skin
Kelp(Macrocystis Pyriferae): Moisture balacing hydration and healing
Lanolin: Natural softener that unfortunately usually contains a high amount of pesticides due to spraying of animal fur
Laureth-4: Synthetic clogging oil - it's cousins are: isopropylpalmitate, isotherma, putty stearate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, decyloleate, isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso cetyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant
Lavender (Lavendula Augustifolia): Healing, relaxes skin, aids in stress releif
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon Schoenanthis):Aids in balancing sebum, clarifies skin tone
Licorice (Glycyrrhiza Glabra):Anti-irritant, de-toxifier
Mango Seed butter (Mangifera Indica):Stable moist butter derived from mango seed laden with antioxidants, natural alpha hydroxy acids and enzymes, hydrates, cell renewal and exfoliation
Meadowfoam Seed: Contain natural mineral enzymes
MSM(Methyl Sulfonyl Methane): Required by and in every cell, natural organic form of sulphur,acts as an antioxidant to prevent cross linking of collagen fibers,must be used in equal parts with Vitamin C to activate the amine arms that protect the cells, required for collagen production, has the toxicity of water and results in plump skin.
Mineral oil: Synthetic petroleum based hydrocarbon. Extreme toxicity. Known mutagenic, irritant and allergen. Often favored by uninformed doctors as it does not penetrate and forms a barrier.
Myristyl Myristate: Synthetic clogging oil - it's cousins are: isopropylpalmitate, isotherma, putty stearate, octyl palmitate, laureth-4,decyloleate, isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso-cetyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant
NF : denotes Natural Form
Nettle (Urtica Officinalis):Antiinflammatant, clarification, healing
Octyl Palmitate: Synthetic clogging oil - it's cousins are: isopropylpalmitate, isotherma, putty stearate, myristyl myristate, laureth-4,decyloleate,isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso-cetyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant
Olive oil(Olea Europaea):Omega~3 fatty acid, Vit A, E, beta carotene, natural source of squalene (natural sebum is 25%squalene) - heals and hydrates, improves skin elasticity, silky feel
Onion(Allium):Onion contains Aliin - when you cut across the cell cytoplasm a an enzyme allinasse creates a reaction and changes to pyrivic acid and ammonia, you cry! Used in scar therapies
Orange oil, sweet(Citrus Dulcis): Rich in Vit C, antioxidants, promotes healthy, supple skin
Panax Ginseng: Herbal adaptogen known for it's abitlity to oxygenate and energize
Parabens (butyl, ethyl, methyl and propyl): Petroleum based synthetic known toxic substances that have a weak estrogenic effect - common preservative ingredient
Paraffins: Petroleum distillates - hydrocarbons - known toxic effect -Not Good!
PEG (polyethanediyl glycol):Synthetic plant glycol - is a humectant, solvent
Petrolatum: Synthetic petroleum based hydrocarbon. Extreme toxicity. Known mutagenic, irritant and allergen. Often favored by uninformed doctors as it does not penetrate and forms a barrier.
Phenolic compounds: Organic compound in it's cemical structure has an unsaturated ring with an OH group on it - easily oxidized (damaged by free radicals)
Phenoxyethanol: Preservative - most common- know toxic agent causes allergic reactions, harmful if swallowed or inhaled can cause eczema, reproductive defects
Plum(Prunus Domestica):Rich in natural alpha hydroxy acids and flavonoids - strengthens cell walls and moisture retention, contains quinic acid - needed for biosynthesis of aromatic compounds
Polyglyceryl-10-Pentastearate: Liquid crystal emulsifying system , protects cell from environment, blends water and oil
Polyporus Umbellatus: Similar to Co Q10 - antioxidant and oxygenation
Polyquarterium: Ammonia derived, toxic
Pomegranate(Punica Granatum):Highest natural source of Ellagic Acid anti mutagenic effect on cells, natural source of 3 estrogens,testosterone,betsitosterol, moisture restoration
PPG Myristyl Proprionate: Synthetic clogging oil - it's cousins are: isopropyl palmitate, isotherma, putty stearate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, laureth-4, decyloleate, isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso-cetyl stearate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant
Propylene Glycol:Antifreeze - known carcinogenic and mutagenic agent - in our foods and skin care - not good also called rose ether, ethylene glycol,monophenyl ether
Putty Stearate: Synthetic clogging oil - it's cousins are: isopropyl palmitate, isotherma, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, laureth-4, decyloleate, isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso-cetyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant
Queen of the meadow(Filipendula Ulmaria (L.) maxim.): Healing, relaxes skin, aids in stress releif
Red Marine Algae:Contains APT compound from aysalt shores of Hawaii, stimulates collagen, firmness and elasticity - slightly clogging
Rose Hip Seed Oil(Rosa Acicularis Lindl):Renews and fortifies skin moisture, bathes cell in Vit C, heals, helps cell wall accept moisture
Rosemary(Rosemarinus Officinalis):Improves circulation, fresh revitalized look to skin
Safflower oil (Carthamus Tinctorus):High in oleic acids gives supple texture to skin, hydration aids in skin's natural barrier function , penetrates skin - good oil
Sand Root(Sophora Flavenscens): Good for itchy skin
Sandalwood (Santalum Album):Healing, humectant
Saponins: Surface active herbal glycosides when shaken with water produce a lasting froth and foam that emusifies oil and water - liquifies phlegm
Seaweed, brown: Collagen amplifier
SF : denotes Synthetic Form
Shavegrass: Aids in new cell growth and cell healing
Shea butter (Karite oil)(Butyrospermum Parkil):Natural sunscreen effect and excellent hydrator. From trees in central Africa
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate(SLS):Can be retained in fat cells for years, known toxic agent - dermatitis, mutagenic
Stearyl Alcohol: Non-drying alcohol, plant derived natural wax, (can be synthetic)
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: Vit C ester - oil soluble form
Toluene: Derived from petroleum- bad
Urea : Natural compound found in skin - when stabilized is excellent hydrator
Witch Hazel (Hamemelis Virginiana):Astringent
Xanthan Gum: Plant derived thickener
Yeast Polysaccarides: Betaglucans Antioxidants
© EpiDermTM2008
